:root {
  color-scheme: light;
  --page: #f5f6f3;
  --surface: #fff;
  --text: #202923;
  --secondary: #424e46;
  --link: #225a47;
  --line: #c6cec8;
  --focus: #a63b00;
  font: 112.5%/1.65 system-ui, sans-serif;
}
:root[data-reading-mode] {
  --page: #fff;
  --text: #000;
  --secondary: #000;
  --link: #002780;
  --line: #333;
  --focus: #752000;
  font-size: 150%;
}
* { box-sizing: border-box; }
body { margin: 0; background: var(--page); color: var(--text); }
[hidden] { display: none !important; }
.wrap { width: min(100% - 2rem, 62rem); margin-inline: auto; }
a { color: var(--link); text-underline-offset: .2em; }
a:hover { text-decoration-thickness: .13em; }
:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--focus); outline-offset: 4px; }
.skip { position: absolute; inset: .5rem auto auto .5rem; padding: .5rem; background: var(--surface); transform: translateY(-150%); }
.skip:focus { transform: none; }
.site-header, .footer { background: var(--surface); }
.site-header { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.header-inner, .header-inner nav { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: .45rem 1.25rem; }
.header-inner { padding-block: .75rem; justify-content: space-between; }
.header-inner a { display: inline-block; padding-block: .35rem; }
.brand { font-weight: 750; color: var(--text); }
button {
  border: 1px solid var(--link);
  border-radius: .25rem;
  background: var(--surface);
  color: var(--link);
  font: inherit;
  font-size: .9rem;
  padding: .45rem .65rem;
  min-height: 44px;
  cursor: pointer;
}
button[aria-pressed="true"] { color: var(--surface); background: var(--link); }
main { padding-block: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 3rem); }
h1, h2 { line-height: 1.2; margin-block: 0 .6em; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(1.85rem, 4vw, 2.7rem); letter-spacing: -.025em; }
h2 { font-size: 1.3rem; }
p { margin-block: 0 1em; max-width: 65ch; }
.intro-block { margin-bottom: 1.7rem; }
.intro-block p, .intro, .topics p, .route-note, .date { color: var(--secondary); }
.routes { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 1rem; align-items: start; }
.route { background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: .4rem; padding: 1rem; scroll-margin-top: 1rem; }
.topics { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.topics li { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-block: .65rem; }
.topics a { font-weight: 700; display: inline-block; padding-block: .2rem; }
.topics p, .route-note { margin-bottom: 0; }
.route-note { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: .75rem; }
.guide { max-width: 40rem; }
.crumb { margin-bottom: 1.2rem; }
.date { font-size: .88rem; }
.article-body h2 { margin-top: 1.5em; }
.article-body li + li { margin-top: .45em; }
.article-body, .route { overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.note, blockquote { margin: 1.3em 0; padding: .75rem 1rem; border-inline-start: .2rem solid var(--link); background: var(--surface); }
.note p { margin: .35em 0 0; }
.sources { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-block: 1.8rem; }
.footer { padding-block: 1rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
@media (max-width: 45rem) { .routes { grid-template-columns: 1fr; } }

/* A quiet editorial layout with one colour per travel area. */
:root {
  --page: #f6f4ed;
  --surface: #fffdf8;
  --text: #222c27;
  --secondary: #47554e;
  --link: #205443;
  --line: #d7ddd4;
  --local-panel: #e8efe7;
  --border-panel: #f2e8db;
  --border-link: #703f2c;
  --display: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
}
:root[data-reading-mode] {
  --surface: #fff;
  --local-panel: #fff;
  --border-panel: #fff;
  --border-link: #002780;
}
.wrap { width: min(100% - 2.5rem, 64rem); }
.header-inner { padding-block: .85rem; }
.brand { font-family: var(--display); font-size: 1.3rem; text-decoration: none; }
.brand:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.header-inner nav { font-size: .95rem; }
button { border-radius: 2rem; padding-inline: .85rem; }
main { padding-block: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 5rem); }
h1, h2 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 600; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(2.35rem, 6vw, 4.5rem); line-height: 1.04; letter-spacing: -.045em; }
h2 { font-size: clamp(1.45rem, 3vw, 2rem); letter-spacing: -.025em; }
.intro-block { margin-bottom: clamp(1.6rem, 4vw, 3rem); }
.intro-block h1 { max-width: 17ch; margin-bottom: .45em; }
.intro-block p { font-size: 1.08rem; }
.routes { gap: clamp(1rem, 3vw, 1.7rem); align-items: stretch; }
.route { border-radius: 1rem; padding: clamp(1rem, 3vw, 1.7rem); }
.route h2 { padding-bottom: .75rem; margin: 0; }
.route:first-child { background: var(--local-panel); }
.route:nth-child(2) { background: var(--border-panel); }
.route:nth-child(2) a { color: var(--border-link); }
.topics li { padding-block: .8rem; }
.topics a { min-height: 44px; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; }
.topics p, .route-note { font-size: .95rem; }
.route-note { padding-top: 1rem; }
.guide { max-width: 43rem; }
.guide-heading { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); margin-bottom: 1.7rem; }
.guide-heading h1 { overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.article-body { max-width: 65ch; }
.note, blockquote { border-radius: .25rem .65rem .65rem .25rem; }
.footer { padding-block: 1.3rem; }
@media (max-width: 45rem) {
  .header-inner { justify-content: flex-start; }
  .header-inner nav { flex-basis: 100%; }
}